Cherry shrimp care: a practical beginner’s guide

Start with a manageable aquarium

For your first setup, I recommend a tank of at least 5 US gallons (about 19 litres). A larger aquarium gives you more room for plants and a bigger buffer against temperature and water-quality changes. Very small shrimp tanks are possible, but they leave beginners less margin for error.

I recommend a sponge filter as a straightforward starting point. With other filters, protect the intake so small shrimp cannot be drawn inside. Add plants, shelter and open space where you can observe feeding. For a breeding colony, a shrimp-only aquarium avoids the risk of fish eating the babies.

Check the water before buying shrimp

Before you buy shrimp, I recommend testing your source water and aquarium for pH, GH and KH, as well as ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Ask the seller about the water their shrimp are already living in. Similar conditions make planning the move easier; a bag labelled ‘cherry shrimp’ does not tell you how those animals were raised.

I consider 22–24°C an ideal temperature range, although I’ve also kept colonies successfully at around 20°C. A heater depends on your room: measure the tank’s daily temperature, then decide whether it needs help staying steady.

Ammonia and nitrite should be undetectable before stocking. One zero reading in an empty aquarium does not establish that its filter can process waste. Complete a fishless cycle and allow grazing surfaces to develop before bringing shrimp home.

Bring them home with a plan

Arrange the introduction method with the supplier before delivery. Follow their shipping and acclimation instructions, taking account of transport time and the difference between their water and yours. I prefer a quick transfer for my own shrimp, but I don’t want you to copy that approach without considering your particular shipment and water conditions.

Keep the light subdued during introduction and give the shrimp shelter. Observe them without repeatedly moving decorations to find every individual. Newly arrived or freshly moulted shrimp may hide.

Make the daily routine simple

Here’s a simple routine I recommend:

• Check that the filter is running and the temperature is steady.
• Watch for normal grazing, unusual inactivity or several shrimp crowding near the surface.
• Offer a small amount of suitable food and check for leftovers.
• Remove confirmed dead animals and investigate repeated losses.

Keep a short record of tests, feeding and maintenance. Partial water changes should use conditioned water with similar temperature and appropriate mineral content. Choose the amount and frequency from your tank’s waste level and source water, rather than copying a schedule blindly.

Recognise a moult

An empty, translucent shell is usually a shed exoskeleton, not a dead shrimp. Healthy shrimp often eat these remains. A solid body is different and should be checked carefully. Do not medicate a tank merely because you have found a moult or one shrimp is hiding.